As it does every year, the prestigious LVMH Prize rewards young fashion designers, complete in their creative and responsible approach. This Tuesday, September 7, the Albanian designer Nensi Dojaka won the grail of the 8th edition, thus gaining access to a 300,000 euro envelope and a one-year mentorship. But who is this queen of the cut out adored by a host of it-girls such as Bella Hadid and Sophie Turner?
On Tuesday 7 September, everyone was hoping to win the LVMH Young Fashion Designer Prize. Among the eight finalists? Bianca Saunders, Christopher John Rogers, Conner Ives, Colm Dillane of KidSuper, Kika Vargas, Lukhanyo Mdingi, Rui Zhou of Ru and Frenchman Charles de Vilmorin, who finally had to lose to London-based Albanian designer Nensi Dojaka. “It was a real surprise,” she said after the ceremony. “All the candidates were very good. With this award, we will be able to strengthen the team. We have recently started working with a new factory in Italy and we have defined how to work together.”
Initially trained in lingerie, this young 27-year-old designer, who recently graduated from Central Saint Martins, continues to challenge the fashion world with sensual cut-out pieces where the play of materials and layering are both strong and poetic. Fabrics such as tulle, georgette crepe and organic organza are transformed through delicious asymmetrical cuts full of duality. Her 90s-inspired aesthetic won over the jury of six artistic directors from LVMH Group companies, Virgil Abloh, Jonathan Anderson, Maria Grazia Chiuri, Marc Jacobs, Kim Jones and Stella McCartney, without much difficulty.
Her eponymous label? She started it in 2017 while still a student and then launched it in 2020, in the midst of the pandemic, after having cut her teeth at brands like Peter Pilotto and Fyodor Golan. Despite the difficult circumstances for the launch, her collections were quickly spotted and embraced by celebrities like Bella Hadid, Emily Ratajkowski and Sophie Turner. Her year-end Central Saint Martins MA 2019 collection notably unveiled deconstructed strapless dresses highlighted by sheer panels. The international behemoth Ssense has chosen to market her creations.
Among the designers she admires the most, Nensi Dojaka refers to Helmut Lang, Ann Demeulemeester or Alessandro Dell’acqua. While her spring/summer 21 collection was supported by the London incubator Fashion East, her next collection will make its debut on the catwalk for London Fashion Week. A word of advice? Keep her name in mind because you’ll be hearing a lot more from this designer who boldly and powerfully enhances women’s bodies.